"Angela Pinkerton, Executive Pastry Chef/Partner of soon-to-be-opened Che Fico, San Francisco, CA, shares her Caramel Chocolate Tart recipe in the DessertProfessional.com Dessert Trio column."
In DessertProfessional.com's latest issue, the Dessert Trio column features three different dessert perspectives on caramel, from three top pastry chefs, François Payard, Michael Laiskonis and Angela Pinkerton. Click the following to see recipes and notes by:
François Payard | Michael Laiskonis
Notes: Caramel is the greatest mistake that ever happened in the kitchen, bitter sweetness. It goes well with almost everything, it’s so versatile with many variations. Not many guests can pass up the combo of salty caramel and great chocolate. This is the kind of dessert even the ‘non dessert person’ will go wild for.
Yield: 12 servings
Salted Caramel Ice Cream:
- 7.6 oz/215 g granulated sugar, divided
- 1 lb/456 g heavy cream
- 1 lb oz/456 g milk
- 0.5 oz/15 g glucose
- 3.5 oz/100 g trimoline
- 6 oz/171 g egg yolks
- 0.21 oz/6 g salt
1. Make a dark dry caramel with 5.3 oz/150 g of the sugar. While caramel is cooking, warm cream, milk and glucose until hot. Deglaze the caramel with the hot liquids. Whisk together the remaining 2.3 oz/65 g sugar and yolks. Temper in the caramel liquid. Pour back into pot and while stirring constantly cook until 180°F. Strain through chinois. Add salt. Chill in ice bath.
2. Spin in ice cream machine. Store in freezer.
- 7 oz/200 g granulated sugar
- 2.7 oz/77 g unsalted butter
- 1.5 oz/43 g corn syrup
- 2.1 oz/60 g water
- 3.5 oz/100 g sliced almonds
- 0.17 oz/5 g salt
- 0.05 oz/1.5 g baking soda
1. In a medium saucepan, bring sugar, butter, corn syrup and water to a boil. Add almonds and cook to a light caramel, stirring every once in a while just to avoid burning the nuts. Add salt and baking soda, stir over lowered heat to combine, and cook to medium caramel, about 1 minute more, stirring often. Pour onto parchment lined sheet pan.
2. While still hot, roll brittle thinly between 2 sheets of parchment, so that it becomes translucent and not opaque when held up to the light, and is as thin as possible. Roll over a rolling pin and cool completely. Break into random shapes. Keep in airtight container.
- 21.16 oz/600 g heavy cream
- 1.76 oz/50 g glucose
- 17.6 oz/500 g 70% Valrhona chocolate
- 0.7 oz/20 g unsalted butter
1. Heat cream and glucose to just under a boil. Pour over the chocolate and allow to rest for a minute to melt completely. Blend together with a hand blender. Add butter and emulsify. Cryovac the excess air out. Pour ganache into a 1/4 sheet pan that is lined with acetate. Refrigerate to set.
2. Flip out of pan onto a sheet of parchment. Remove acetate. Cut one of each size per serving in 1 ¼” and 2 1/4” diameter rounds.
- 17.6 oz/500 g granulated sugar
- 9.7 oz/275 g warm water
- 0.14 oz/4 g salt
- 1 vanilla bean, split and seeded
- 7 oz/200 g cold water
- 0.38 oz/11 g agar agar
- 5.6 oz/160 g heavy cream
1. With sugar, make a dark dry caramel. Deglaze with warm water to make a caramel syrup. Add salt and vanilla seeds, mix well, strain and set aside.
2. In a different saucepan, combine the cold water with agar. Cook over medium heat and bring to a boil. Whisk and simmer for 5 minutes, until all granules are dissolved. Temper caramel syrup into the agar mixture, then remove from heat. Strain into a small hotel pan, cover and let refrigerate overnight.
3. Cut the solid Caramel Gel into small cubes. Place in blender, drizzle in cream and blend on high speed until smooth and shiny.
- Maldon salt
Pipe the Caramel Gel on to plate and use an offset spatula to spread whimsically. Place one of each sizes of the ganache disks around the fluid gel, as in photo. Arrange broken Almond Brittle pieces randomly on and around the ganache disks. Lightly warm the ganache with a torch to create a shine and sprinkle lightly with Maldon salt. Quenelle Salted Caramel Ice Cream on top of brittle and ganache as seen in picture.