Nov 22, 2017 Last Updated 6:31 AM, Nov 9, 2017
 
 

Carré Payard with Caramel Fleur de Sel and Caramel Ice Cream

Carré Payard with Caramel Fleur de Sel and Caramel Ice Cream by François Payard.

"François Payard, Owner of Payard, Las Vegas and FPB in NYC, shares his Carré Payard with Caramel Fleur de Sel and Caramel Ice Cream recipe in the DessertProfessional.com Dessert Trio column."

 


In DessertProfessional.com's latest issue, the Dessert Trio column features three different dessert perspectives on caramel, from three top pastry chefs, François Payard, Michael Laiskonis and Angela Pinkerton. Click the following to see recipes and notes by:
Michael Laiskonis | Angela Pinkerton


 

Notes: The interior of these chocolate cubes are painted with tempered chocolate, then filled with an intense chocolate mousse that has a secret salted caramel center. When you break the cube with your fork, the salted caramel pours out and mixes with the mousse, and it’s really a fabulous combination of flavors.

Yield: 8 servings

Special Equipment: eight 3” plastic cubes (available from office supply stores)

Chocolate Sacher Cake: 

  • 2.5 oz/70 g almond flour 
  • 2.7 oz/78 g granulated sugar
  • 4 large egg yolks 
  • 5 large egg whites
  • 0.88 oz/25 g Dutch-process cocoa powder, sifted

1. Preheat a convection oven to 425°F. Line a half sheet pan with a silicone baking mat.  

2. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, combine the almond flour, 2.3 oz/65 g of the sugar, the egg yolks and 2 ½ large (2.6 oz/75 g) of the egg whites and whip on medium-high speed until the mixture doubles in volume and becomes a pale yellow color, about 10 minutes. Gently fold the cocoa powder into the yolk mixture just until blended; do not overmix or it will cause the batter to deflate. 

3. In another, clean bowl of the mixer, using a clean whisk attachment, immediately whip the remaining 2 ½ large (2.6 oz/75 g) egg whites on medium-high speed until soft peaks begin to form. Gradually add the remaining 0.45 oz/13 g granulated sugar and beat at high speed until the whites form stiff peaks. Fold the whites into the cocoa mixture. Spread the batter onto the prepared sheet pan (it will be a thin layer) and bake for 7 to 9 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean. Cool the cake in the pan, set on a wire rack, for 10 minutes.

4. Unmold the cake and cool completely. 

5. Cut out eight 2 ¾” squares from the cake and place them in an airtight container until ready to use.

Chocolate Sable Breton:

  • 3 hard-boiled yolks
  • 6.2 oz/177 g unsalted butter
  • Pinch of salt
  • 2.6 oz/75 g confectioners’ sugar
  • 6 oz/170 g all-purpose flour
  • 1 oz/30 g almond flour 
  • 1 oz/30 g Dutch-processed cocoa powder

1. Pass the cooked yolks through a fine meshed strainer onto a piece of wax or parchment paper. 

2. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the butter, salt and confectioners’ sugar on medium speed until well blended and smooth. Add the flour, egg yolks, almond flour and cocao powder and mix on low speed until the mixture comes together and forms a dough. Remove from the bowl, form the dough into a disc, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

3. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a half-sheet pan with a silicone baking mat. Place the dough on a lightly floured work surface and roll it out to a thickness of ¼”. Cut out eight 3” squares from the dough and arrange them on the sheet pan. Bake for about 10 minutes, or until the dough is baked through and is no longer shiny. Cool completely.

Chocolate Cubes:

  • 24 oz/680 g bittersweet chocolate, chopped

Melt and temper the chocolate. Pour some of the chocolate into one of the eight 3” plastic cubes, filling it. Turn the cube over, pouring the chocolate back into the bowl and leaving a thin film of chocolate coating the interior of the cube. Repeat with the remaining chocolate and cubes. Set the chocolate cubes aside to set.

Chocolate Mousse:

  • 5.3 oz/150 g bittersweet chocolate 72%, chopped
  • 1 large egg
  • 1 large egg yolk
  • 2.2 oz/62 g granulated sugar
  • 1 oz/30 g water 
  • 8.8 oz/250 g heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks

1. Place the chocolate in a medium stainless steel bowl and set the bowl over a pot filled one-third of the way with barely simmering water. Heat, stirring frequently, until the chocolate is melted and smooth. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. 

2. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg and egg yolk together at medium speed. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, combine the sugar and water and cook over medium-high heat, occasionally washing down the sides with a wet pastry brush, until the syrup comes to a full boil. Allow to boil for 1 minute, then remove the pan from the heat and slowly pour the hot syrup into the beating egg and yolk. Increase the speed to high and beat the mixture until it is doubled in volume and completely cool, about 6 minutes. Fold the melted chocolate into the egg mixture (ideally, the chocolate should be at 104°F when it’s folded in; if it’s too cool, rewarm it gently over the hot water). Gently fold in the whipped cream.

Salted Caramel Center:

  • 4.4 oz/125 g heavy cream 
  • 4.4 oz/125 g granulated sugar 
  • 1 oz/30 g water
  • 0.4 oz/12 g glucose syrup
  • 4.4 oz/125 g unsalted butter
  • Pinch of salt

1. In a small saucepan, heat the cream over medium heat until hot. Reduce the heat to low to keep it warm. 

2. In a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the granulated sugar with the water and glucose and cook over medium-high heat, occasionally washing down the sides of the pan with a wet pastry brush to prevent crystals from forming, until the sugar caramelizes and turns a dark amber color. Remove the pan from the heat and gradually stir in the warm cream. Return the pan to the heat and stir until any hardened bits of caramel are dissolved. Add the butter and salt and stir until the butter is melted. Remove the pan from the heat and let the caramel cool to room temperature.

Caramel Crème Anglaise:

  • 8 oz/225 g granulated sugar
  • Pinch of sea salt
  • 17.6 oz/500 g whole milk
  • 7 large egg yolks

1. In a small saucepan, heat the milk over medium heat until hot. Reduce the heat to low to keep it warm. 

2. In a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine 4.4 oz/125 g of the granulated sugar with the salt and glucose and cook over medium-high heat, occasionally washing down the sides of the pan with a wet pastry brush to prevent crystals from forming, until the sugar caramelizes and turns a medium amber color. Remove the pan from the heat and gradually stir in the warm milk. Return the pan to the heat and stir until any hardened bits of caramel are dissolved. Remove the pan from the heat.

3. In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and the remaining 3.5 oz/100 g sugar until pale. Whisk about ½ cup of the hot caramel mixture into the yolks, then return the entire mixture to the saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon and reaches 175°F on an instant-read thermometer (do not let the mixture boil, or the egg yolks will curdle). Remove the pot from the heat and pass the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. Set the bowl in an ice bath and stir frequently until cold. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

Caramel Ice Cream:

  • 8 oz/225 g granulated sugar
  • Pinch of Fleur de Sel
  • 1.76 oz/50 g glucose syrup 
  • 17.6 oz/500 g whole milk
  • 7 large egg yolks

1. In a small saucepan, heat the milk over medium heat until hot. Reduce the heat to low to keep it warm. 

2. In a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine 4.4 oz/125 g of the granulated sugar with the salt and glucose and cook over medium-high heat, occasionally washing down the sides of the pan with a wet pastry brush to prevent crystals from forming, until the sugar caramelizes and turns a dark amber color. Remove the pan from the heat and gradually stir in the warm milk. Return the pan to the heat and stir until any hardened bits of caramel are dissolved. Remove the pan from the heat.

3. In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and the remaining 3.5 oz/100 g sugar until pale. Whisk about ½ cup of the hot caramel mixture into the yolks, then return the entire mixture to the saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon and reaches 175°F on an instant-read thermometer (do not let the mixture boil, or the egg yolks will curdle). Remove the pot from the heat and pass the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. Set the bowl in an ice bath and stir frequently until cold. Transfer to a covered container and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or overnight. 

4. Process the base in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions. (Be careful not to over churn the ice cream or it will become grainy.) Transfer the ice cream to an airtight container and freeze until ready to serve.

Streusel:

  • 2 oz/57 g unsalted butter 
  • 2.2 oz/62 g granulated sugar 
  • 2.1 oz/60 g all-purpose flour 
  • 2 oz/58 g almond flour

1. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the butter and sugar together at medium-low speed until smooth. Add the all-purpose and almond flour and mix until blended; the dough will be crumbly. Gather the dough into a disc and refrigerate until firm, about 1 hour. 

2. Unwrap the dough and grate it on the large holes of a box grater (or, alternatively, using a cross-hatch wiring cooling rack and holding it at an angle, “grate” the dough through its holes.)

3. For baked Streusel, preheat the oven to 375°F and line a half-sheet pan with a silicone baking mat. Scatter the pieces onto the prepared sheet pan and bake for about 8 minutes, until golden brown. Cool completely.

Assembly:

  • Fleur de Sel
  • Chocolate cigarettes 
  • Gold leaf

1. Fill the chocolate cubes halfway with Chocolate Mousse. Press the square of Chocolate Sacher Cake into the mousse, allowing the mousse to push up the sides. Place about 1 tablespoon of the cooled caramel into the cavity created by the mousse. Pipe more of the chocolate mousse on top of the caramel layer, filling each cube. Level the top of the mousse with a spatula and place in the freezer until firm, at least 3 hours. 

2. Unmold each chocolate cube from the plastic and place it onto the baked square of Chocolate Sablé Breton. Use a small bit of the Salted Caramel Center to anchor the dessert to the plate. Place a small piece of gold leaf in the center of the square. Sprinkle some baked Streusel on the other side of the plate and place a quenelle of Caramel Ice Cream on top of it. Garnish the ice cream with a sprinkling of sea salt and a chocolate cigarette. Spoon some Caramel Crème Anglaise onto one of the corners of the cube.

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