"Michael Laiskonis, Creative Director, Institute of Culinary Education in New York, NY, shares his Corn-Hazelnut recipe in the DessertProfessional.com Dessert Trio column."
In DessertProfessional.com's latest issue, the Dessert Trio column features three different dessert perspectives on corn, from three top pastry chefs, François Payard, Michael Laiskonis and Angela Pinkerton. Click the following to see recipes and notes by:
François Payard | Angela Pinkerton
Notes: The natural sweetness of corn lends itself well to desserts, especially during the transition from late summer into autumn. Here, the rich hazelnut ice cream and praline cream help draw out the subtle sweetness of the corn custard, along with a smoky spicy counterpoint from the piment d’Espellette.
Yield: 12 servings
- 17.6 oz/500 g corn kernels (fresh or frozen)
- 9.5 oz/270 g skim milk
- 2.1 oz/60 g granulated sugar
- 0.07 oz/2 g fine sea salt
- 1 oz/30 g egg yolk
- 0.1 oz/3.3 g agar agar
- 0.02 oz/0.6 g locust bean gum
1. Place corn and milk in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from heat.
2. Strain 3.5 oz/100 g of the milk into a small saucepan. Purée the corn and remaining milk and strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Reserve 5.3 oz/150 g of the resulting purée and whisk in the sugar, salt, and egg yolk.
3. Disperse agar agar and locust bean gum into the reserved milk. Gently bring to a boil and simmer for two minutes. Incorporate into the corn purée.
4. Transfer to 12 prepared 14 cm cylinder molds and chill.
Hazelnut Ice Cream:
- 19.75 oz/560 g whole milk
- 4.5 oz/128 g heavy cream (35% fat)
- 1.6 oz/45 g dry nonfat milk powder
- 0.88 oz/25 g dextrose
- 1 oz/30 g glucose powder
- 4 oz/115 g granulated sugar
- 0.14 oz/4 g ice cream stabilizer
- 3.17 oz/90 g hazelnut paste
- 0.07 oz/2 g fine sea salt
1. Combine the milk, heavy cream, nonfat milk powder, dextrose, and glucose powder in a saucepan and begin to heat, stirring continuously.
2. When the mixture reaches 104˚F, add the granulated sugar dry blended with stabilizer.
3. Continue heating to 185˚F and hold for 1 minute.
4. Cool the base in an ice water bath. At approximately 150˚F, add the hazelnut paste and salt and homogenize with a handheld immersion blender for approximately 45 seconds.
5. Chill the base to 40˚F and mature for approximately 16 hours.
6. Process the base in a batch freezer to 23˚F and extract; alternatively, process in a PacoJet according to manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer to blast chiller to harden to approximately 0˚F.
- 7 oz/200 g heavy cream
- 1/2 sheet gelatin, bloomed
- 10.5 oz/300 g praline paste
1. Place the heavy cream in a saucepan and heat to 105ºF. Whisk in the gelatin to dissolve.
2. Place praline paste in mixer bowl fitted with paddle attachment; slowly incorporate cream. Mixture may ‘break’, but will emulsify with the addition of all the cream.
Buttered Popcorn Caramel:
- 3.5 oz/100 g fondant
- 3.5 oz/100 g glucose
- 3.5 oz/100 g Isomalt
- 1 package microwave butter-flavored popcorn, popped and finely ground
- Pinch of fine sea salt, to taste
1. Combine fondant and glucose in a saucepan and begin to cook. Once dissolved, add Isomalt. Cook to 325ºF.
2. Pour the sugar mixture onto a Silpat and allow to cool completely.
3. Transfer to a coffee grinder with an equal weight of popcorn powder, along with salt if desired, and grind to a fine consistency.
4. Sift over desired stencil onto a Silpat. Remove stencil and gently cover with a second Silpat. Place in a 300ºF oven for 90 seconds. Remove from oven and allow to cool.
5. Store in an airtight container.
- Hazelnuts, roasted
- Piment d’Espelette
- Micro cilantro
1. Unmold each portion of the corn custard, sprinkle with sugar, and lightly caramelize with a blowtorch.
2. Arrange the Corn Custard on the plate alongside the Praline Cream.
3. Garnish with the Hazelnut Ice Cream and Popcorn Caramel. Finish with the hazelnuts, cilantro, and Espelette pepper.